Valentina's
Tex Mex BBQ Review (@Brodie Lane in Austin, TX)
Let’s get this clear
up front: I’m a purist. Some might even say snob (although Daniel Vaughn claims
the official handle). BBQ should stand by itself. If you use sauce or other
toppings on your meat, aren’t you just copping out? I’m the one most likely to give the harshest
review of a place. The one least likely to be satisfied if the meat can’t stand
alone. My rock that I stand on: The meat and nothing but the meat! No one is
going to convince me that I’m wrong!
Valentina’s has just
knocked me off that rock. And they pulled no punches.
Mom, Dad, my Uncle
Mike (not the Mike mentioned in other reviews) and I went there for lunch. At
first glance this place doesn’t look like much. It’s a small trailer in the
parking lot of a convenience store. There’s a relatively small smoker around
back.
You can get meat by
the pound, but unlike most places this is not their niche. They specialize in
sandwiches and… tacos? Yep, looking at the menu again there are 4 regular
sandwiches and 4 regular tacos. There are also two special sandwiches and
breakfast tacos (which we are too late for). BBQ tacos… this should be
interesting.
Dad orders the
Sloppy Jose sandwich (of which I’ll steal a piece of the jalapeno-cheddar
sausage). Mike orders the Porky Pig Sandwich. Mom gets the Smoked Brisket taco
and a beef rib (both of which I try). I get the Smoked Carnitas taco and a ¼
pound of the pulled chicken. We’ll start at the bottom and work our way up.
Beef rib: The beef rib is juicy and tender with
good marbling. There’s a nice bark on the outside. It’s lacking just a bit in
the smoke flavor. I can taste some, but not quite as much as I want. It’s good but not exceptional. 7.0/10.
Jalapeno-Cheddar sausage: There’s a good snap
in the casing. It’s juicy and not overly chewy. *6.5/10.
Wait.. I thought you said you were
starting at the bottom and working your way up. What gives?!?
The truth is I just
don’t like jalapeno. It’s not about heat, as there are plenty of hot things I
do like, but I’ve never liked the taste of jalapenos. Given how much I dislike
them, the fact that I give this 6.5 out of 10 means anyone who DOES like jalapeno
would probably give it 8 or 8.5. We’ve always said that taste is relative. This
is a prime example, and when I know that my personal taste is affecting the
score I’ll try and point that out.
Smoked Brisket Taco: The smokiness of the
brisket is apparent, and is complimented nicely by the salsa and the guacamole.
I wouldn’t think those flavors would blend, but they do quite nicely. 8.5/10.
Smoked Carnitas Taco: Again, the smoke flavor
comes through clearly, but without being overpowering. The onion, cilantro, and
salsa seem like they would blend nicely, and they do. It’s an excellent merging
of smoke and a hint of heat from the salsa. 9.0/10.
Pulled Chicken: Juicy, tender, and a lovely
smoked flavor. Their pulled chicken was done to perfection. I’ve always said
that poultry is a hard one to do well, but they’ve pulled it off. 10/10.
So there you have
it. A BBQ purist went to Valentina’s with his preconceptions… and had them
shoved back in his face hard. There’s something to be said for combining smoky
goodness with the right combination of flavors. In fact, I find it interesting
that the two items I scored the lowest (and they are still respectable scores)
were “purist” items.
Don’t get me wrong.
I still maintain that a good beef rib, brisket or pork chop is a thing of
beauty. But Valentina’s has shown me that beauty comes in a variety of
flavors.
Is it worth a visit?
Absolutely. In fact, I’m glad I don’t live too close I could see myself eating
there all too often. Mom and I both agreed that in terms of taste the tacos
were better than Torchy’s (although
Torchy’s has the edge in variety).
Is it worth a trip? So the
conversation goes like this:
You: “So let me get this straight. You want me to drive an hour (or more),
to S Brodie in Austin. Once there I’m not even looking for a building, but a
gas station. Once at that gas station (again, having driven an hour plus), I’m
going to a trailer (so it isn’t even in the gas station) in the parking lot of
that gas station to order BBQ. I’m not going anywhere else. And you think this
is worth doing?!?”
Me: “Yes”.
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