Brotherton
BBQ/Leroy & Lewis BBQ -
Pop-up
Event at the Growler Bar (Pflugerville, TX)
John Brotherton of
Brotherton BBQ and Evan LeRoy (former pitmaster at Freedman’s Bar) teamed up
for a popup event at The Growler bar in Pflugerville. These are two of the best
pitmasters in the area, although neither has a brick and mortar or permanent trailer
spot at present (but each have plans in the work as I understand it?). But they
keep their fans happy with events such as this (and judging from the line I
suspect the Growler Bar is pleased with the business it brings in as well).
There’s a nice
crowd. I arrived at 3:45 and was about 25 spots back in line. I was joined by
my friend James, and had a nice conversation with Tim (and later his friend
Jeff) whom we ended up sitting with. When I left at 7:15, I’d estimate
there were still 70-80 people in line.
The meat menu for
this event is a combination of classics and unusual. John is providing brisket,
pork spare ribs, and a bacon cheeseburger sausage. Evan offers up arroz con
pollo boudin, boudin stuffed quail, and a bacon chop. I’ll be trying
everything, and you’ll get ratings from James, Jeff, and Tim (guest scoring)
based on their orders.
Bacon Cheeseburger Sausage: We all agreed this
was well-made, with a nice snap to the casing. It was juicy and tender without
being greasy. But for some reason the flavor didn’t really wow any of us. It
was good, but felt like it was missing something that kept it from being great.
On the way home I finished off my last bite and I think I figured out what it
was (IMHO): it’s TOO much like a cheeseburger. I’m tasting the beef, and the
cheese, but I’m not getting that spice flavor that makes me think sausage. This
may be a case where too much accuracy wasn’t ideal.
Scoring Disclaimer: We all agreed that the
quality of the preparation was well done. It was flavor that was the weak link
for us. Tim - 6.0/10, James, Jeff, Tom – 7.0/10. Avg: 6.75/10.
Bacon Chop: The bacon chop had an excellent
flavor. There was some nice smoke and spice. It was a bit tough on the outside
parts, although more tender as you got closer to the bone. The toughness was
more of an issue to some than to others. Jeff – 6.5/10, Tim - 7.0/10, Tom –
8.0/10. Avg: 7.17/10.
Arroz con Pollo Boudin: A nice snap on the
casing. Could be a bit more tightly packed, as it is a hair soft even for
boudin, but it has an excellent flavor. There some nice pieces of pepper to
compliment the spices. Tom – 8.0/10.
Pork Ribs: The ribs have a nice crust. There’s
pepper, but also a nice sweetness at the finish. There’s a lot of meet on mine,
and the flavor goes to the bone. Tim – 8.0/10, Tom – 8.5/10. Avg: 8.25/10.
Brisket: I forgot to specify, and I ended up
with lean. Despite that, it is extremely tender and flavorful. There’s black
pepper but also something a bit hotter this time? I can only imagine what the
moist was like, because this is close to melt in the mouth anyway. Tim and Jeff
– 8.0/10, James and Tom – 9.0/10. Avg: 8.5/10.
Boudin Stuffed Quail: I’ve always found BBQ
quail to be very hit or miss, primarily because it is very easy to dry it out.
Not in this case. It is perfectly juicy, with a nice crusty skin that is
excellently seasoned. The boudin adds a wonderful flavor as well. This is perfect.
I’d be happy eating nothing but these all night. Tom – 10/10.
I’d heard someone in
line wondering why two pitmasters would team up. Why aren’t they doing it by
themselves to promote their own business? I can’t (and won’t) speak for their
reason, but I do think a collaboration like this shows one of the best things about
BBQ. There’s a lot of different things out there to try. No one pitmaster is
going to be the best at every type of smoked meat or creative combination there
is. A collaboration like this allows two excellent pitmasters to combine their
skills to bring us an offering that is more than the sum of their parts. They
get to show their talents to a potentially wider audience, and we…we get to
taste the results.
Can’t really do the
normal summation since neither of them has a permanent location (yet). But if
you can catch one or both somewhere, they are both worth trip distance (60
miles or more one way).
-Tom
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